Sunday, July 5, 2009

Even more fish...and waffles



This is how bright it was at 10.30pm. The sun doesn't go down at this time of year, so we worked up an appetite for dinner cycling. A tour guide was supplementing his income by leading free Reykjavik bike tours and working for tips. 6 of his tours in the summer were cancelled because there was a drop in demand for tours and more people were showing up and doing their own thing or camping. So he and his wife/girlfriend bought some bikes and decided to give free tours around the city! He took us through Reykjavik neighborhoods, pointing out hotdog stands, ice cream shops, burgers, lobster soup shacks and finally by the ocean and Bjork's house. (you can allllmost see it in the picture. It is a small 2 storey black house, off into the distance)

Also where the new opera house by the sea to rival Sydney's, which is under construction, designed by Olafur Elisasson. We cycled through the university where it costs NOTHING to go to school. Our guide had 7 degrees, 5 of which were masters degrees, costing him a grand total of $300. WHAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAT!!!! Maybe I should move to magical Iceland and get some education. That means that every degree costs about half a monthly MTA metrocard.



Anyway, earlier in the day, a shopkeeper gave us a recommendation for dinner at a place by the lake, Við Tjörnina, which means..."by the lake", that serves meat and fish. They handdraw/write their menus everyday.



It isn't traditional Icelandic food – most people can't stomach real Icelandic food. How about ROTTEN SHARK? Neupe, I'm giving that a miss. BUT, what was special was that this place was decorated like an Icelandic house and we were told that going there was like being invited to dinner in someone's house. So when the bike ride went about 45 minutes longer than anticipated and 40 minutes late, we started getting verrrry antsy. It was 10.45pm and we bolted out of the drop off car even though our guide assured us that Icelanders were very flexible with time and burst into the restaurant apologizing profusely since the kitchen was closing in 15 minutes.







Their menus had some sort of bizarre cover.



And on the inside were more drawings of fish!



All the tables had different decorations and tablecloths. Ours had cross stitch on it. (Hand stitched, NOT printed)



When I went in to make a reservation earlier in the day, I asked what fish just came in and the chef told me that they had gotten some artic char, cod and monkfish fresh in that morning. Candice and I both had the char.



It was HUGE!



It came with some root vegetables and a skinned tomato with some sort of cilantro corridander mix hiding under it. I've never had fish so good and so fresh. I was enticed by their cookbook that was in the lounge where we were waiting for our food and I bought it, captivated by more fish drawings and beautiful photography, despite the fact that I can't understand a single word it says because it is all in Icelandic.

Earlier on the bike ride, I met some people that were looking for the Waffle Wagon earlier in the day. It only makes an appearance late at night, so you have to be patient. It stays open for the late night weekend crowd so it closes whenever people go home early in the morning. 6am? We emerged from the restaurant past midnight, having saved room for waffle.



mmmm tasty waffle. I ate it too quickly to post pictures. But here is their menu:

12 comments:

Unknown said...

I love hearing about Iceland especially the food! I'm planning on going in September and I can't wait. I'll have to try some of your food recommendations. Are they all in Reykjavik and easy to find? We're going to try to hike in other parts of Iceland too. - Samantha (Pamplemousse's sister)

Pamplemousse said...

I guess that makes you Samplemousse?

Sampling mousse, creme brulee and all other fine gastronomic delicacies? ;)

Mousse said...

AWESOME! You're going to have an amazing time. Everything, except for the lamb chop, was in Reykjavik. If you stay near the city center, everything is walkable, including the main bus station, the Perlan (water towers & observatory) and a geothermal beach. I'll dig up addresses for you so you can find them a little easier

I'm not sure where you're planning on staying, but we stayed at a wonderful apartment:
http://www.reykjavik4you.com/
it was near the main street Laugavegur, (eating, shopping, drinking). If you're planning on staying at a hostel, the Salvation Army is a better choice than Reykjavik Backpackers – I met some Swiss girls that stayed at the Salvation Army and they said it was good, cheap and clean. Reykjavik Backpackers is on the main street and gets VERY NOISY on weekends. I went out on friday night and people were getting thrown out of bars, playing drunk frisbee in the streets & throwing the frisbee into buildings instead of at each other.

Don't bother with Reykjavik guide books & maps. You can pick them up for free around shops in the city.

Mousse said...

OH! I also have a book with farm stay listings around the country!!!!! I really recommend driving around the entire country if you have time and I think it would be so fun if you stayed at one of them! Let me know if you're interested.

Are you hiking and camping?

Unknown said...

Ha ha! I am actually allergic to most mousse (because of the raw egg) but I do love my creme brulee!

Thanks for the apartment recommendation! That looks amazing! I'd better book our flights right away so we can start planning.

Unknown said...

Yes, we do want to hike and if the camping is good, then we love camping too! I guess renting a car is probably the way to go to see the rest of the country... Is your book good? Maybe I should buy a copy. Are you driving around Iceland too?

Pamplemousse said...

Oops! Didn't realize mousse had raw egg in it, but I guess that makes sense. I don't really eat mousse, only pamplemousse which isn't a mousse at all. Only Mousse eats mousse.

Definitely take any travel advice Mousse gives you! I think she was a travel agent in another life. Our tour around New York was the time of my life! She has the special talent of knowing what different people with different interests and budgets will like. And always knows the funnest places with the best sights and food.

Pamplemousse said...

P.S. You are welcome to guest blog anytime (or become a member) just think of your own fun food name!

Mousse said...

CAMPING IS EXCELLENT!!!! I'm not sure how cold it will be in September. But weather permitting, you can park your car at Skógafoss, and its a 2 day hike from there. I am sure there are other, prettier places hike around.

Unfortunately I can't drive, so I was at the mercy of the tour buses. But DEFINITELY rent a car, its the best way to see things. You can also do little day trips. There is only one road around the country so you will not get lost!!

I didn't use any guidebooks. I used blogs and websites. I picked up a couple of guides for free in Iceland and I'll scan what looks interesting for you. On the way to the south coast, we passed by lots of guesthouses so it's a good idea to hike around and sleep around the area because it seems pretty easy to do.

Unknown said...

How did you book at Reykjavik4you? I just tried and it won't take my credit card payment. Maybe I'll try calling them tomorrow.

Mousse said...

We booked through redappleapartments.com

If you call, call either +354 5658400 or +354 6616700 and ask for Svala

Unknown said...

Thank you Mousse! I've booked it now, as well as booking the flights and putting in a request to book the rental car. We are going for 10 days and 9 nights. I'm SO excited! Thank you for all your help. I will be using your restaurant recommendations for sure!